Sunday, April 29, 2012

Joy and Pain


The most amazing part of my life here in Rwanda is the community that surrounds me.  Never before have I felt so loved and supported and truly communed with as I do now.  Let me give you a glimpse of said community via an unfortunate incident that occurred this afternoon, with a little pre-story for added perspective:

This morning, I woke up way late for church (like 4 minutes after it started) because I stayed up too late last night bowling with a dozen expat friends.  I bowled abysmally, but I had a splendid time fellowshipping with sweet friends, sharing jokes and stories and experiences until way past my bedtime.

So, I got to church late, but there was still a seat for me in the row in which I usually join friends.  That was nice.

After church, five of us decided to go to lunch together.  Well, actually, I had two different options of groups to join for lunch… Now, at this time last year, I would have sulked my way back to my house and scrounged up some food and gotten in my bed and spent my Sunday bored and lonely, so just the prospect of lunch with friends is something in which to rejoice.  I had a lovely lunch of a BBQ sandwich and then headed back home, which is when all the excitement went down…

The plan was to take Micki home and then grab my fabric from my classroom and meet Heather, Abby, and Julia at the market for a jaunt this afternoon, but as they so often do in Africa, plans changed.

As I was beginning to ascend the hill up to the neighborhood, a friendly moto-driver was hastily descending a bigger hill out of the neighboring neighborhood paying no regard to the yield sign that should have proffered me the opportunity to safely climb my hill home untouched.  Well, as they often do in Africa, the moto-driver ignored the yield sign and headed directly towards Micki and me on my little Scooty Pep+.  So, naturally, I swerved out of the way, and as it often does in Africa, it had recently rained rendering the pavement slick and wet.  So…. We fishtailed, I uttered a choice word, and flew Superman style off to the left as my scooter fell to its side ensnaring my left foot.  Micki took it much more gracefully (as she so often tends to do in most things, like Zumba and Justin Bieber dancing, for instance), and was fortunately saved from nasty hip road rash by the big wad of money in her waistband that she had just changed at the Forex Bureau (Fortunate, also, is the exchange rate and the fact that it takes quite a few Rwandan Franc bills to equal a couple hundred US Dollars).

We calmly assessed the situation and asked, “Whom should we call?” (Let’s be serious, we weren’t thinking in quite such good grammar in our state of shock… it was “Who should we call?”). I digress, but having options of people to call is another good indicator of the level of community we have here in Kigali.  We decided on the headmaster who dropped everything to head our way.  I also called “Mama” Natalie as she lived just at the top of the hill, and I knew she had a first aid kit, not that it would be adequate for the state of my foot...  Then, I sent Micki to the supermarket on the corner for a bottle of water to rinse off all of the blood and a towel to squeeze my foot to stop the bleeding.

One more digression.  At one point, I was looking for my cell phone to make another phone call when I noticed my pocketbook was presumably missing.  I immediately accused the growing crowd of spectators of taking advantage of this poor injured Muzungu and stealing my bag (which we are so often apt to do) when one of the onlookers kindly pointed out that Micki was holding my bag.  One of the innocent bystanders had actually been kind enough to save my bag from the masses and handed it to me, but as I was busy clotting blood, I gave it to Micki for safe-keeping, and in our mental state, we overlooked that detail.  Now, back to the regularly scheduled programming…

Then within 5 minutes, the doctor dad of my of my students (and husband of our friendly librarian) drove by and saw a crowd and came to assess the situation.  He assured me that, as it so often is, the hospital was unnecessary and also that calling the police (which the locals realllllly wanted me to do) would just cause more hassle than it was worth.  Then, along came Jamie in her little red car.  She saw a crowd and a Scooty Pep+ and knew it was one of “our girls” (as three of us now drive said vehicle). All of our supporters emerged on the scene practically simultaneously. Jamie drove me to Micki’s house, Dr. Miller went to get his first aid kit (which was like Goliath compared with Natalie’s David-esque kit), the headmaster helped Natalie start my scooter which she drove to the house, and the real assessment began. 

Here are a few pictures, taken by Jamie for longevity’s sake, after a bit of cleaning and during the administration of lidocaine:





A few shots of lidocaine, four sutures (you know, to close in the exposed tendon), one nice dressing, and two hours later, all was (relatively-speaking) well with the world. 

I can’t forget to mention the support of Emily sharing one of her epic stories as the doctor shot my sensitive little foot full of lidocaine to distract me from the pain and the gift of a Lindt Dark Chocolate with Sea Salt bar from Abby who was intent on boosting morale through the sacrifice of her favorite chocolate and Jamie and Natalie running to the pharmacy to buy more supplies and medicines and Micki picking up the things I dropped and bringing me water and just being there and Natalie offering me her bed for a few nights so I don’t have to live alone in pain and travel so far to work and Jamie taking me to my house to pick up some belongings and the headmaster and deputy headmaster stopping by to check on me post-surgery. 

These people love me, and I love them, too, and I’m not sure what I would do without the love of Christ shining through each and every one of them in my times of need this year.  I can only hope to embody Christ to each of them as they face their own difficulties in the years to come.  The joys of community make the pain of scooter accidents oh-so-much more bearable! 

Friday, April 13, 2012

Living and Learning


The good ol’ proverbial “they” out there say, “You live, and you learn,” and I have to agree.  Take these few examples, for instance:

You give 15 former street boys 3,000RWF (5USD) each to buy health insurance, and you learn to ask for receipts.

You eagerly buy a 32GB flash drive from a guy on the street for 5,000RWF (8USD), get home, find out it’s fake, and you learn your street smarts could use some work.

You read a whole book in a big green field on a beautiful, equatorial sunny day, and you learn to reapply sunscreen.

You copy a vocabulary quiz you found online that has extra credit (which you firmly do NOT believe in) in the instructions, and you learn to read the things you hand your students before quiz time.

You venture out on a limb to make homemade tortillas for the first time and put them in the oven to keep them warm, and you learn how tortilla chips are made.

You spend a month delving near death and slowly climbing back from it, and you learn to sleep under a mosquito net.

You read the book of Genesis to a group of genocide orphans, and you learn to see the story of the world in a more meaningful way.

You tell someone how they’ve hurt you, and you learn that people really can change for the better.

You open your eyes, and you learn to see the glimpses of redemption all around you.

You open a book, and you learn to see the world from someone else’s perspective.

You open the door, and you learn not to fear what’s behind the next one.

You open your heart, and you learn who really loves you.

You open your arms, and you learn how to love.

You open your mind, and you learn about yourself and the world around you.

You live, and you learn.

And according to my girl Alanis Morissette, not only do you learn when you live, but also when you love, cry, lose, bleed, scream, grieve, choke, laugh, choose, pray, and ask.  And again, I have to agree.  As I have done each of these things in the last few months, I have learned. 

While I’m here in Rwanda to teach, I find that I’m learning much more than I’m teaching, and I wouldn’t change that for the world.  I love living and learning (and alliteration).

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Freedom


So while most of my faithful readers likely woke up Saturday morning anticipating the evening’s big college football game and spent Sunday morning gloating (or sulking, as the case may be), my weekend differed a bit.  While I DID wear a bright orange skirt and a big tiger paw on my shirt to church on Sunday, I celebrated a more meaningful victory.

Saturday morning, I made myself presentable (as this often helps your cause dealing with official business in Rwanda) and headed out to attempt to bail one of my boys out of jail.  Thursday night at English lessons, the boys informed me that one of them had been hauled away that afternoon for selling a dictionary on the streets.  You see, it is illegal to sell anything on the streets here, and undercover cops engage sellers and then arrest them and haul them off, much like they do with drug dealers in America.  I asked the boys how long he’d be in jail and they said maybe the end of the year, maybe February.  Now, note he was not indeed selling drugs, but a dictionary.  I asked if there was any way I could get him out of prison and they asked me to please try.  So try I did…

I armed myself with documents proving he was a member of the troupe, documents proving that I paid the rent for their house, and photos of the boys at drum practice and in their home.  I was escorted to the door of a building that looked like a run-down factory.  A police greeted me at the door and I humored him with my broken Kinyarwanda and essentially said, “Good morning.  How are you?  I am fine.  My student is here.  This is a problem.”  He asked for the name of my student and then sent someone to find him.  The entire experience broke my heart.

The police officer informed me that my students were street kids.   I quickly showed him the documents proving I paid their rent and the pictures of them sitting in their living room and the promotional flyer for the dance troupe boasting of FORMER Rwandan street kids.  It broke my heart that these boys have come SO far from who they were when they really were street kids, but they are still viewed as the bane of society.  I thought of The Avett Brothers’ song “The Perfect Space” that says, “I want to have friends that I can trust/ who love me for the man I’ve become/ not the man that I was…”

I had a conversation with another man at the entrance who taught secondary school in town and said that part of their curriculum these days is to teach students that street kids are people, too.  While I didn’t see many faces, I imagined the look that would be on my own face if I received the message these kids were being sent everyday through their circumstances, and I assure you that message is not, “You are a person, too!”  I watched as a young teenage girl arrived with a baby on her hip.  She passed the baby off to another teenage girl inside the institution, presumably the baby’s mother.  As I witnessed the police officers mockingly asking both girls if they had husbands, I imagined Jesus telling those without sin to throw the first stone and refusing to condemn the girls.

I was grateful that the police released "my boy" to me.  His "brothers" were equally as grateful that I was able to get him out of jail.  I took him home to the open arms of the rest of the boys and went on my with Saturday.

Saturday night we had a staff Christmas party and sang various Christmas carols.  The leader of the singing encouraged us to really think about the words of the songs we were singing, and that thought crossed my mind as I listened to Josh Groban sing “O Holy Night” this morning before church.  As he sang, “Chains shall He break for the slave is our brother/ and in His name all oppression shall cease,” I couldn’t help but rejoice in the truth of that.

At church, we read Matthew 25:31-46 and I was reminded of the role we have in helping the oppression to cease.  Give food to the hungry.  Give water to the thirsty.  Welcome strangers.  Clothe the naked.  Visit the sick.  Visit the imprisoned.  You may not live in the middle of Africa where these things are so prevalent, but there are hungry, thirsty, strange, naked, sick, imprisoned people everywhere.  Do something about it!

Jesus was born to an oft-condemned teenager and grew up amidst the jeers of the authorities.  He came and broke chains so that we could be free from condemnation.  He loved the unlovely and served the servile.  And in His name, ALL oppression shall ultimately cease.  I eagerly anticipate that day!

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Half a Weekend in Kibuye

This weekend, two of my fellow teachers and I decided to have a mini-getaway to Lake Kivu.  As every other African adventure, this one was eventful.  A few noteworthy moments:

  1. The lady sitting next to Natalie on the bus got super sick, so Abby gave her a Ziploc bag (with a slice of leftover birthday cake in it), and she puked and puked and puked.  When she had eliminated the contents of her stomach into the bag, she threw the puke/birthday cake bomb out the window. Disgusting.
  2. We ate Lake Kivu fish (not sure exactly what variety that is) for dinner.  The whole things.  Heads and tails included.  Delicious.
  3. I slept in my hammock overlooking the beautiful lake beneath the rolling hills.  Delightful.
  4. I was awoken at 1:30am by some tiny splatters on my hammock followed by some retching up above.  That’s right, someone on the balcony above ralphed over the railing and didn’t quite miss the miss in the hammock below.  I was a victim of vomit.  Luckily I was all wrapped up like a cocoon and didn’t actually get any spewed splatters on my person.  Dirty.
  5. Ten minutes after the puke incident, I heard presumably the puker pee and then discuss (right loudly) the prospect of drinking his own urine, provided he were stranded in a desert with no water to be found.  He is the reason so many people around the world hate Americans.  Despicable.
  6. We walked down to the nicer hotel and kayaked about the lake for an hour then ate lunch and walked back to our guesthouse.  Lots of fun, fellowship, and fitness.  Divine.

Now it’s back to the grind.  I have a unit to plan tomorrow and 2 more weeks of school until Thanksgiving!

Friday, October 28, 2011

Dumb and Dumber in Rwanda


So yesterday I took one of my students to Bourbon for coffee after school.  I drive a TVS Scooty Pep+ and I have a huge full-face helmet for me and a dainty little pink flowery one for my passengers.  Well, through a series of unfortunate events, my pink helmet ended up not being at school when I needed to give it to my student to ride safely to Bourbon.  I ended up giving her my full-face and using the decrepit blue helmet (with no face mask or chin strap) that’s been sitting around at school as long as I’ve worked there.  It was on this scooter ride that I reminisced back to 1994.

In 1994, something happened that changed the world forever.  Jim Carrey and Jeff Daniels starred in the ever-popular film Dumb and Dumber.  As I drove down the road yesterday wearing my janky helmet, my student grasping my shoulders, I felt very much like Lloyd Christmas driving to Aspen.  Of course, I asked my passenger if she felt like Harry Dunne, but seeing as she was BORN in 1996, she had NO clue what I was referring to.

Later the same night, another Dumb and Dumber moment was lost on the people around me.  I was at “my boys” house teaching them English.  David’s smile warmed my heart.  His joy in the midst of extreme poverty and hardship never ceases to amaze me.  My smile broadened, however, when he said, and I kid you not, “we have no food.  We have no jobs.”  It was ALL I could do not to respond, “Our pets heads are falling off!”

These are not the only parallels one can draw between my life and Dumb and Dumber.  For example, there’s the obvious, “Why you going to the airport?  Flying somewhere?” as I fly somewhere on a fairly regular basis.  I can also relate to Lloyd when he says “I get 70 miles to the gallon on this hog.”  But, according to my calculations (which are likely less than accurate), I get more like 100 miles to the gallon on my “hog.”  (If you want to do the math, my tank holds 5 liters of petrol and I can drive 200 kilometers on one tank.)

Then there’s the aptly named pet store, “I Got Worms,” which is something I have been able to say on multiple occasions since moving to Rwanda.  Once I left English lessons a bit early to make it to the pharmacy before it closed.  I told the boys I needed to go because I had “snakes of the stomach” (as they call them).  One of them responded, “Everyone has snakes in their stomach!”  I informed him that, while that may be the case in his country, we westerners boast of worm-less stomachs most of the time…

The next parallel might only make sense to my fellow abazungu (white folk) in Rwanda, but the exchange between Lloyd and the elderly woman on the sidewalk applies to our lives here:
            Lloyd:  Excuse me, little old lady.  Do you have change for a dollar?
            Elderly woman:  Change?  No, I’m sorry, I don’t.
For, you see, finding change in this country (while it has been improving as of late) is NOT an easy task.  Moto drivers are infamous for not having the change you need and trying to get you to give up and let them “keep the change.” 

My last parallel might be a stretch.  Recall the last scene of the movie.  Harry gives a bus full of girls directions to the nearest town.  Harry then runs back and tells them different directions to the nearest town. This is how direction giving works in Rwanda.  You ask one person how to get to X, and he points you up the hill to the right.  When you get up the hill to the right, you ask another person how to get to X and he points you down the hill to the left where you find another person who points you straight ahead where you find another person, and I think you get the picture.  You never know quite where you’re going to be led.

So you may be wondering where I’m being led after this school year since my “commitment” ends May 29.  Well, if you’re wondering if I’ll come to the States for the summer and return to KICS next year, well, I’m “telling [you] there’s a chance!”

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

The DRC


Hello from the Democratic Republic of the Congo!  We have a week off from school, so I decided to visit my friends Lindsey and Blake in Lubumbashi, DRC.  I’ve thoroughly enjoyed home-cooked meals, going to bed whenever I want and waking up whenever I want, as well.

Just a few observations/broad generalizations about the Congolese:

  1. Congolese people are, in general, more attractive than Rwandan people. 
I’ve noticed myself stopping and staring at numerous people since I’ve arrived here.  There’s just something about the faces I’m seeing that is like nothing I’ve seen in Rwanda.

  1. Congolese people are, in general, more talented than Rwandan people.
The music coming from the church around the corner on Sunday morning stunned me.  The melody, the harmony, the rhythm… These Congolese have skills.

  1. Congolese people are, in general, more stylish than Rwandan people.
The style also reflects on the talent a bit.  The African fabrics here are beautiful, and the Congolese take full advantage of the endless possibilities of ways to create fashion masterpieces with them.  I’ve wanted to steal so many dresses right off of their owners, but that wouldn’t cut it with the modesty standards ‘round these parts.

[Side note:  I feel right at home in my matchy-matchy obsession here in the DRC.  If you have a yellow hat, yellow shirt, yellow belt, yellow bag, and yellow shoes, why not wear them all at the same time?]

Some observations/broad generalizations about the Congo:

  1. DRC is far dirtier than Rwanda.
There is trash EVERYWHERE in DRC.  They also burn their trash, so it smells wretched much of the time.

  1. DRC is far more corrupt than Rwanda.
While currently the police are forced to offer grace to passing vehicles for two months, typically cars are stopped many times a day to show their documents.  We’ve only been waved down once since I got here, but Blake and Lindsey are not looking forward to December when the grace period expires…

  1. DRC is far hotter than Rwanda.
It started raining in Rwanda not long ago which drops the temperature significantly and makes me wish I had a jacket much of the time.  The rain hasn’t come to DRC yet, and it’s well above 90 degrees Fahrenheit everyday and barely gets below 70 degrees at night.  It’s also SUPER dry, and thus I have major crusty boogers in my nose constantly. 

Well, those are all of the observations I care to share at present.  Perhaps I’ll share some more with you before I leave… but no promises!

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Zebra Crossing


Yesterday, I received an SMS (a text message) from the Rwandan National Police that read, “RNP reminds you that talking & texting on phone while driving is a traffic offence.  Disregarding zebra crossing also attracts punishment.”  One hour later, I received the same message translated into Kinyarwanda.  Oh, what a country I live in!

A few thoughts on this text message…

  1. I live in a country that is so small that the national police force can send a mass text message to every single person in the country to pass on information, however impertinent.
  2. The Rwandan National Police disseminated this message to an entire country of 10 million people where approximately 2 in every 100 people have cars.  Some people in remote little villages, who may never have seen a car, have cell phones and likely received this message.  I can only imagine their confusion.
  3. I teach American English in a country that is dominated by British and African English.  Note that being on the phone whilst driving is a traffic offenCe.  Teaching English here is a constant battle.
  4. You might think it humorous that “disregarding zebra crossing also attracts punishment.”  While, yes, I do live in the middle of Africa, no, that does NOT mean you need to watch out for crossing zebras (pronounced here as if it rhymed with Debra’s).  For my American readership out there, zebra crossings are pedestrian crosswalks.
  5. I appreciate the RNP’s active voice in the second sentence, but the word choice could use some help.  Eliminating passive voice is one of the skills I plan to teach my tenth grade English class next week, so I’m glad to have some additional fodder for my lesson.
  6. All in all, I appreciate the reminder that "talking & texting on phone while driving is" indeed dangerous.  I drive a Scooty Pep+ around this fine town, and while I am always very aware of my surroundings, I notice that, 9 times out of 10, the people who don’t notice me on the road are, indeed, on their cell phones.  (The other 1 out of 10 is ALWAYS a woman!)
Every day I have to chuckle at the goings-on in my world.  Whether it’s a mass text message from the police or a comment from a student (“I am shizzle to be a man one day,” said one of my street boys last week, bringing back a slang word from a lesson from months ago...), I never cease to be amazed at the never-ending amusement around me.  While I sometimes envy you people who live in a land where pretty much everyone speaks your language, I don’t pity you.  You are missing out on LOTS of laughs!